Thursday, February 24, 2011

Long weekend with the parents.

Cabbage and citrus slaw with avocado and pickled red onion
Sweet potato and black bean soups... swirled. 
I know we've been over this, but few things inspire my cooking like the people I love best.  I recently spent a long weekend at my parents' beautiful, peaceful home in Fresno-- a place that really is a solid contradiction to everything negative you've ever heard about that town.  I've been saying for years, "well, my Fresno is awesome!"
They have a beautiful, extremely productive garden, and often meals are made simply from what one finds on a little stroll around their raised beds.  I swear, the best broccoli I've ever worked with came out of their parking strip; and every now clichéd, reverent reference you've ever heard about the tomato still warm from the vine is rooted firmly in the image of their sunny, cheerful backyard.
Chocolate-toffee cookie
My parents are both educators, and had a four day weekend for President's Day- which inspired my trip.  We spent the days like we always do, I cook while Moma (that's what we call her- she's very artistic) reads me poetry or short stories aloud.  Ron, my step-dad is gardening or Mr.-Fix-It-ing something in the yard.  We eat, lingering over the table, drinking wine at ANY AND EVERY hour of the day.  We play in highly charged tournaments of word games, card games (Hearts, please!), and dominoes.  We sit in the living room, which has the most exquisite, amber light I know, and Ron plays the piano or we talk.  We are so comfortable surrounded by the book-lined walls and the animals who have finally tired from their incessant play and lay, collapsed, at our feet.  My Fresno is peaceful, and beautiful, and I fall backwards into the hammock of my family breathing a deep sigh of relief.  There are so many things we don't and can't know in life, but this?  This I know, and this I believe.







Spicy cauliflower pizza. I tried, unsuccessfully, to innovate on the baking-pizza-at-home-without-a-stone issue.  Still delicious!

I mean, seriously, in could be nine in the morning.



This is potentially my favorite dish of the weekend.  A bed of creamy hummus, pickled rounds of roasted beets, halves of beautiful five-minute eggs,  a garlicky mortared walnut and diced avocado relish. 



Doesn't everybody love befores and afters?
Apple-raisin tart with hazelnut-oat crumb topping.  Family food.

Tuesday, February 15, 2011

Baking for Bica

I was sipping a spectacular cappuccino the other morning at one of my favorite cafés, Bica Coffeehouse, in Rockridge.  I had my book, but I was only sort of reading-- I'd get a few paragraphs in and break to chat with the charming barista.  The subject of my afternoon came up, and I mentioned that I was slated to do some BAKING at home-- I had made a list of things I wanted to make, had acquired the necessaries and was happily contemplating spending a few hours covered in flour.  He asked what I was making.  I told him, and he said without missing a beat, "I'll buy that from you."  Well... 40,000 exciting ideas later...

There's a hidden smear of onion jam under all of that ham and cheese.  Yes, I did.


They were glazed and finished with black pepper before baking.  

So began a potentially very exciting relationship between this demitasse and a perfectly lovely café.  I am in once a week as a guest baker, having begun with black forest ham and antique gruyère turnovers and a walnut-streusel coffee cake.
Tomorrow I deliver pecan sticky buns and a savory focaccia smothered in a roasted sweet potato, red cabbage and Parmesan blanket, available by the slice.

Bica Coffeehouse is just across the street from the Rockridge BART, on the corner of Miles and College Avenues.  I'm working specifically on bringing something savory to the table each time I bake- and being the seasonal-produce fiend that I am, my inspiration is rooted firmly in the market.  I am looking forward to exploring such ideas as shirred egg tartlets, the egg nestled into a rich vegetable filling, the filling nestled into crisp and flaky puff pastry.  Or savory pound cake- the famous "cake salé" of the french apéro.  Or little portable cellophane bags of handmade crackers. Or, or or... I clearly cannot be stopped.

Thursday, February 10, 2011

Pop-up General Store

I had a great time helping my dear friend at yesterday's Pop-Up General Store in Oakland.  I had an even better time spending my morning creating and writing recipes to share with our visitors and patrons that provided some fun uses for their gorgeous Becker Lane Organic Pork.  
The Pop-Up is a twice-monthly occurrence in Oakland, and is a wonderland for the food-minded.  A group of professional cooks, artisans and producers come together, each with their own table, and create an impromptu market bursting with everything from cheese, to breads, to baked goods, to fresh pastas, to pork!  
I promised many visitors that they would find my recipes up on the blog, so here they are!  Photos to follow...



Inspired recipes for your Becker Lane Pork, courtesy of Chef Kelsey Bergstrom

One braise, two ways:  Who doesn’t love multitasking dishes?  Prepare this blonde pork braise and use it for two very different, delicious and unique meals.

Pork Braised with Dried Porcini and White Wine
5-6 pounds pork shoulder, diced to about one-inch square
1 yellow onion, finely diced
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 ribs celery, finely diced
1 large carrot, peeled and finely diced
¼ c. chopped dried porcini mushrooms
1 dried bay leaf
2 whole cloves
1 c. dry white wine
stock, as needed
salt and freshly-ground black pepper

                  Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees.
Heat a 6-8 qt. dutch oven or another heavy, large pot over high heat.  Let the pot get nice and hot.  Season a quarter to a third of your pork with salt and pepper, and add to pot.  Let the meat sit for a couple of minutes before giving it a gentle turn, careful not to disturb the golden crust forming on the bottom.  Do this a couple of times, until the meat is browned on all sides and the bottom of your pot continues to develop its “fond”.  Remove meat to a bowl or dish, repeat with remaining pork.  **This is a balancing act- this bottom layer is the source of much savor and depth- so pay close attention to managing it as you work.  Do not let it burn—each successive addition of meat will slow it down and protect it, as the meat cools the pot and throws a little liquid.**
                  Once all of the pork has been browned and you have a delicious fond at the bottom of your pot, add the onion, garlic, celery, carrot, porcini, bay leaf and cloves.  Make sure that there is enough fat in your pot to generously coat the vegetable base and protect it from burning.  Now cook this base over a low flame, scraping up the fond with a wooden spoon, until the vegetables are meltingly tender, about ten minutes.  Add white wine and enough stock to completely cover meat, stir well, and then add back in your pork and any DELICIOUS accumulated juices at the bottom of it’s dish.  Cover tightly with foil and then the pot’s lid, bring to a boil, then transfer to pre-heated oven.  Braise without disturbing for 1 ½ - 2 hours, or until melt-in-your-mouth tender.  Remove from oven, uncover immediately and let cool.  (Can be prepared up to two days ahead up to this point.)
                 
Pork and Roasted Root Vegetable Cobbler
Serves 4.

½ batch of Pork Braised with Porcini and White Wine
1 each of an assortment of root vegetables, I like sweet potato, celeriac, sunchokes (4-5 each of these, they’re little!), rutabega, parsnips, potatoes.
Olive oil
Salt and freshly-ground black pepper
1 batch buttermilk biscuit dough, use your favorite, or visit my blog for the recipe
1 egg, beaten

                  Pre-heat oven to 425 degrees. 
                  Peel and dice each of your selected root vegetables to about ½-inch square.  Keeping them separate, toss each with a drizzle of olive oil and a pinch of salt and pepper.  Lay each out on a parchment-lined sheet tray, a row of each kind of vegetable.  This keeps them separate (therefore assuring perfect cooking for each vegetable) without dirtying a million dishes.  Roast until tender, removing each vegetable as it is done.  Set aside.
                  Bring pork braise to a boil in a dutch oven or other heavy pot, and reduce until the sauce just coats the back of a spoon.  Add roasted root vegetables to the braise, stir in.  Turn off heat and lay in rounds of buttermilk biscuit dough, so that they are sitting on top of the meat and vegetables, forming a single-portion crust.  Brush biscuits with beaten egg and transfer entire cooking vessel to the oven and bake for 15-20 minutes, or until biscuits are golden brown and cooked through. 

Buttermilk Biscuits
Adapted from The Baker’s Dozen cookbook.
1 ½ cups all-purpose flour
1 ½ tablespoons sugar
1 ½ teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon baking soda
Rounded ¼ teaspoon salt
½ stick (¼ cup) cold unsalted butter or lard if you have it, cut into ½-inch cubes
¾ cup well-shaken buttermilk


                  In a medium bowl, sift together flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt.  Add the cold fat and, using a pastry blender or your finger tips, work it in until the mixture looks crumbly, with the occasional pea-sized bit of fat still visible.  Add the buttermilk and stir with a fork until you have a moist, coherent dough.  Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead gently until the dough looks smooth and feels soft.  Pat dough into a ½-inch thick rectangle and cut rounds about 3-inches in diameter.  Makes about 6 biscuits.



Pork and Fontina Cheese filling
½ batch of Pork Braised with Porcini and White Wine
4 T. butter
4 T.  all-purpose flour
2 c. whole milk
nutmeg, to taste
1 c. Fontina cheese, grated
1/2 c. Parmesan cheese
                   
                  Begin by bringing the braise up to a boil.  Using a slotted spoon, pull out the meat from the sauce and set it on a cutting board.  Dice the pork into smaller pieces, each cube roughly quartered.   While you are doing this, allow the sauce to continue reducing until nice and intense, by at least half.  Add the diced pork back to the pot.  The sauce should coat the meat.  Set aside to cool.
                  Make béchamel:  In a sauce pan, heat the 4 T. butter over medium heat until melted.  Whisk in the flour and when fully combined, pour in the milk in a steady stream.  Increase heat to high, and continue whisking (this part is both tedious and important!  It takes many minutes, but will result in a lump-free sauce!) until the entire pot comes to a boil and thickens.  Reduce heat to low and simmer, whisking occasionally, for about twenty minutes.   Season lightly with salt and nutmeg.
                  Add the béchamel to the pork braise and mix gently until fully incorporated.  Set aside to cool until close to room temperature.  Fold in cheeses.  Taste and adjust seasoning.
                  Use this savory filling for your favorite stuffed pasta preparation-  cannelloni, lasagna, ravioloni.  Alternately, halve, scoop and roast your favorite winter squash (acorn, delicata and buttercup are all good choices) until tender.  Stuff with pork filling and bake until hot throughout. 
           
  
*Hazelnut-crusted Pork Chops with Wild Mushrooms and Madiera
Serves 4
 For hazelnut-crusted pork chops:
4 bone-on pork chops, about 1-inch thick
1 c. hazelnuts, toasted, cooled and rubbed of their skins
2 eggs, beaten
¾ c. all-purpose flour
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

            Set up to coat your pork chops by spreading your flour evenly over a flat surface, like a dinner plate.  Take your toasted hazelnuts and either chop them by hand or pulse in a food processor until uniformly bitty-- not powder-fine, but small enough to make for an even coating.  Spread them, like the flour, on another dinner plate.  Have your beaten eggs in a baking dish or bowl that easily fits the size of the pork chops.  Arrange these in front of you from left to right, as follows: pork chops, beaten egg, flour, hazelnuts.  Have a baking dish handy for holding your crusted meat.
            Pat your pork chops dry with a paper towel, season lightly with salt and pepper.  Taking one chop at a time, dip in the beaten egg, allowing all of the excess to drip off.  You’re looking for an even, smooth coating.  Dip next into the flour, shaking off excess.  Take the chop back to the beaten egg for another coating on top of the flour, and finally, dip in the chopped hazelnuts.  Take your hands and gently press the hazelnuts into the meat.  Set the crusted chop in your baking dish, and repeat with remaining chops, taking care to keep them in a single layer in the dish.  (Can be prepared several hours ahead to this point.)

For mushrooms:
1 pound wild mushrooms (Chanterelle, hedgehog, morel and/or porcini.  Button mushrooms are a perfectly acceptable substitute!)
2 T. butter
2 T. olive oil
salt
splash of white wine
Sprig or two of thyme (optional)

            Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees. 
Warm butter with oil in small sauce pan until melted.  Place mushrooms in a mixing bowl, and add butter-oil mixture. Sprinkle with a moderate pinch of salt (you’ll taste them when they come out of the oven and  adjust seasoning to taste), add a splash of white wine and thyme sprigs, if using.  Mix thoroughly and spread into a single layer on a parchment-lined sheet tray.  Roast, turning occasionally, until golden and until the liquid that the mushrooms will throw has almost entirely evaporated.  Mushrooms vary wildly as to how wet or dry they are to begin with, so this could take anywhere from 10-30 minutes.  (Can be prepared well ahead.)

For cooking pork and making sauce:
4 T. butter
2 T.  cooking oil
Hazelnut-crusted pork chops
1 shallot, finely chopped
2/3 c. stock
¼ c. Madiera
1 T. whole-grain mustard
1 sprig tarragon, leaves picked and chopped

            Preheat oven to 350 degrees. 
In a skillet or wide sauté pan, large enough to hold two pork chops at a time, heat 1 T. each of butter and oil until the foam from the butter subsides.  Add two of the chops and cook for 1-2 minutes, or until the crust is golden brown on the first side.  Flip chops and repeat on the second side, transfer to rimmed sheet tray while you repeat with second two chops.  If you find that bits of hazelnut are falling off of your chops and in any danger of burning, pour out your fat and begin with fresh.  Transfer baking sheet to oven and continue to cook until an instant-read thermometer reads 125 degrees, about five minutes.  Remove from oven, tent with foil and let rest five minutes, while you are finishing the sauce.
In a small bowl, whisk together Madiera and whole-grain mustard.  Set aside.
While pork is cooking, pour out all but one tablespoon of fat from skillet.  Add chopped shallot and cook over low head until tender, about five minutes.  Deglaze with Madiera and whole-grain mustard mixture, then add stock.  Bring to a boil and reduce by half.  Melt in remaining 2 T. butter and chopped tarragon.  Keep warm.

To serve:
            Have sauce and mushrooms hot.  Place a pool of glossy sauce down in the center of each of four entrée plates.  Place golden, nutty pork chop atop and spoon over wild mushrooms.  To complete the meal, offer sides of sautéed spinach, chard or another green, and/or your favorite potato preparation. 


To learn more about the Pop-Up, visit http://www.popupgrocerystore.com/
To learn more about Becker Lane Organic Pork, visit http://www.beckerlaneorganic.com/

Saturday, February 5, 2011

Celebrating Baby D', Eric and Nelle! Baby shower for 40 guests.




       Months ago I happily agreed to do the food for my wonderful cousin Nelle's baby shower.  Larger events are not generally my interest, but this was a family affair, and few things inspire me and my work like family and friends!
       The event was unusual-  It was not intended as a "meal", yet had been scheduled for noon!  Approaching this from a design perspective was so fun-- what direction did I want to take that would yield a diverse, fun and satisfying eating experience while delivering a balanced meal to those inevitable guests who would consider it one?  I positively giggled as I decided on- Mediterranean street food.


      The cooking of the Mediterranean and the portions of the Middle east that fall under that title has always been inspiring to me- the savor and complexity in the fritters, the marvelous spicing, the positively sensual colors, the emphasis on seasonal produce-  the deep respect and reverence for food and its place in the culture.  These things speak to and make reverberate the strings that tether me to my cooking.



       I made savory tarts, dips and fresh pita bread that I baked into its puffy glory on site just an hour before the guests arrived, and a beautiful spread of salads.  I plied my sister with lunch a few days before (and the possibility of leftovers), and the little champ came over and rolled no fewer than 130 dolmades.  I provided a couple of traditional condiments that could be applied in any number of ways to the spread- in fact, Nelle came up with a combination that was like an upgrade to the whole affair-- I guarantee some new dish or other is incubating in my brain as a result.  See?   Inspiration comes from all corners!


The menu:

Dukkah:  Spiced hazelnut dip with bread and olio nuovo
Fresh pita bread with hummus and muhammara
Dolmades:  stuffed grape leaves
Spanakopita
Butternut squash, leek and walnut tart
Salads:
Spiced sweet potato and shaved fennel with preserved lemons and green olive
Marinated beets with celery and herbs
Wild and basmati rice with fresh ginger, currants and almonds
Creamer potatoes with roasted red pepper, black olive and saffron
Turkish spiced yogurt sauce
Seasonal fruit platter